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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.